Sailing Croatia’s Adriatic coast

At the beginning of this year, this journey was the only one I was planning to go on. As it turned out it wasn’t the only, yet definitely the greatest. We spent an amazing week on a yacht – visited a few port towns, did snorkeling at marvelous island bays and most of all, had “fair winds and following seas”.

There were twelve of us: me, Her and the rest – so as you see, very nice crew. Our boat (Oceanis 473) was over 14 meters long and there was a lot of space on board so I don’t think anyone felt any discomfort. And even if they did, these amazing landscapes and shiny water made it up for sure. The sailing route looked like this: we started in Sutomiscica on Ugljan Island (where we got by a ferry from Zadar) and turned south to Pasman Island, then having gone along Kornati Islands we reached Marina Seget, next to Trogir. On our way back we visited Sibenik, Skradin, Krka National Park and after two more stops in bays we returned to Ugljan. The main benefit of a yacht trip like this is that you can visit any place inaccessible from continental mainland, get to know it from entirely different perspective. All the estates by the sea, lighthouses, caves… – splendid.

Croatian coast also means plenty of islands, so every moment you feel too hot or feel like swimming, you just take the nearest bay, drop the anchor and jump into the water. With a little help of a mask and a snorkel, you admire wonderful fauna and flora underwater. Well, it’s not like cays in Egipt or Australia but still nice to see. Moreover, having heard about dolphins and mermaids that people happen to spot there every now and again, we never stopped hoping to see them as well. At the end we succeeded once or twice, but it was from a long distance so not only are we still not sure if it was actually a mermaid or a dolphin, but we also feel kind of unfulfilled – which is good though, we saved something for the next time. Another thing about fauna is that there were a number of starfishes and crabs at the bottom of the sea. We didn’t taste the first ones but crabs were quite delicious. And it wasn’t too hard to catch them actually.

In the evenings we usually went sightseeing. Depending on where we stayed overnight, we walked about either the forgotten paths on some island or well known streets in port towns, like Trogir or Sibenik. The streets themselves were charming, but with the combination of all the lights, live music and stories each one of them had to tell, it all made a place you just wanted to be. In addition, there always were some hills nearby, so obviously I couldn’t miss at least one view from up there. And I didn’t. Moreover, the view from Subicevac fortress above Sibenik was the most spectacular one I’ve seen this year. I could just stay there for a week, not moving anywhere at all. But every single day brought more and more so eventually it was better to go with the flow.

Regarding Krka National Park – this was something new for me. It’s situated in central Dalmatia and encloses the Krka River. The cascades located on the river make a huge impression on everyone visiting this place. There are some viewpoints around but probably the largest attraction is swimming in the lowest lake, right next to a waterfall. While walking across the park you can also meet local traders selling various kinds of fruit, local wines or rakia (the most popular spirit in Croatia). I tried one of its types – travarica (herbal rakia), which I honestly recommend.

And finally, sailing itself. It’s much more interesting to travel by a sailboat than by a motorboat or a ferry. Those who’ve already tried know what I mean, those who haven’t – what are you waiting for? Captain sea stories, shanties, full sails and another sailboats all around you is what lets us feel what this world tastes like. Croatia’s Adriatic Coast is of course not as challenging as the Baltic Sea or the North Sea, especially at this time of year, but it’s perfect for starters (like in my case). Or for those who don’t like cold and short waves, which in most cases involve a bucket of recycled food (yes, you know what I mean) but apparently, it’s still fun. I’m not sure what I’ll choose as the next cruise but hey – we must try everything, even the short waves.

Now… bring me that horizon.

And really bad eggs. Drink up me ‘earties, yo ho!


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